I have tried a number of indie perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s fragrances. Her Web site (Parfums des Beaux Arts: fine art fragrances) is a tad hard to navigate, but has a huge range of options—which is fun. She’s also personally reachable through their customer service email address and she is really helpful. I so appreciate that kind of personal service. A rapid fire review of some of her fragrances (more to come eventually):
Jitterbug (for men): Very deep, spicy and animalic. It begins quite intensely, mellowing as the scent unfurls. I like it on my fiance, but I also dig it on me. Both slightly repulsive and incredibly appealing. Smells like hate-sex.
The Other Half Says: You smell pretty.
Bergamot, Blackberry, Blackberry Leaf, Lemon, Pimento Berry, Benzoin, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Clove Bud, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute, Ambergris, Atlas Cedarwood, Ciste Absolute, Frankincense (Olibanum), Labdanum, Musk, Patchouli
Jitterbug (original/for women): I tried this after the men's version and it is less harsh and more wearable for me, but still amber-y, spicy, warm and dark. It has good lasting power, even on my skin. And it does have the delightfully vintage vibe the perfumer promises. So, this could be a really great buy. But is it updated enough that other people won't be like, "um that girl smells like grandma"? I don't know. It would certainly not be for those who like modern, squeaky clean scents. Some people on MUA say it is similar to Estee Lauder's classic Youth Dew, which I have never tried.
The Other Half Says: I like it.
Bergamot, Blackberry, Lemon, Pimento Berry, Benzoin, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Clove Bud, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute, Amber, Frankincense (Olibanum), Labdanum, Musk, Patchouli
American Beauty: Rosy, rounded and nice layered with Jitterbug for Men. I have been wearing blends with rose absolute for a while, so I am personally burned out on rose scents. I think if you were someone other than me and wanted a lush, classic rose scent, then this would be a good choice.
Bergamot, Cassis Bud, Palma Rosa, Rosewood, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Bulgarian Rose Otto, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Egyptian Rose Geranium, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Orris, Ciste Absolute, East Indian Patchouli, Mysore Sandalwood, Peru Balsam
Memory & Desire: A gorgeously disturbing interpretation in scent of Ezra Pound's In a Station of the Metro. It smells sad, like smoke and ink. It's a cinematic scent, a drama: Rivulets of mascara dripping down cheeks/ looking out of a rain streaked window onto a gray city street. A cliche visually, but really unusual in a fragrance. I love how evocative and story-like this is, but I am not sure about its wearability.
Apple Blossom, Peach, Sweet Pea, Violet, Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Kukicha Tea, Orris, Ambrette Seed, Australian Sandalwood, Benzoin, Civet, Hiba Cedarwood, Sumi Ink
Beach Rose : Watery, disappears quickly (on me). I wanted it to magically transport me to one of New England beaches where I have spent so much of my life. It is too pure and clean to really evoke the beaches I know. I am head over heels for real beach roses, so I went into this with an expectation of too much perfection. None the less if you like clean, fresh scents and usually find rose too heavy and old fashioned, this might be perfect for you. I think it is a pretty brilliant way to bring the classic scent of rose to contemporary audiences for whom “clean and marine” is the norm.
Lemon, Neroli, Ocean, Palma Rosa, Violet, Waterlily, Carnation Absolute, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Chinese Geranium, Demine Rose Otto, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Rugosa Rose, East Indian Patchouli, East Indian Sandalwood, Musk
Dirty Rose (for men): I expected to like this (for me), but how to put this... it smells like a bandaid, some sort of chemical disinfecting solution and roses. I think this fragrance and my skin chemistry just don't get along.
Bergamot, Egyptian Rose Geranium, Mastic, Pimento Berry, Pink Peppercorn, Rosewood, Buddahwood, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Gallica Rose Otto, Labdanum, Olibanum, Orris, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Virginia Cedar, Ambergris, Brazilian Vetiver, Cassis Bud, Guiacwood, Hiba Cedarwood, Leather, Myrrh Gum, Oude, Styrax, Tobacco Absolute, Treemoss
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